Please wait

Contact

37-39 rue Boissière
75016 Paris
France

Phone : 01 41 40 99 80

GaultMillau © 2025 All rights reserved

Chefs and... bakers

Chefs and... bakers

Anne Debbasch | 8/30/23

We didn't expect them to open their own bakeries, but many chefs have done just that, taking the plunge with commitment and a certain mischief. Mitron Bakery, Levain, Suzanne & Lucien, Thierry Marx and B.O.U.L.O.M. are just some of the storefront names that resonate with artisan breadmaking and bakery smells. For everyone, a dream come true.

Mauro Colagreco, in Menton, Olivier Nasti, in Kaysersberg, Jacky Ribault, in Noisy-le-Grand, Thierry Marx and Julien Duboué, in Paris, have decided to take the plunge and put bread back at the center of the table. A universal and living nourishment, a symbol of sharing and simplicity, bread no longer tolerates ready-made mixes or ultra-short fermentations.

Here, gestures and long fermentations are the order of the day, as are homemade sourdough, kneading and baking, all of which contribute to the flavors of these long-lasting loaves. With passion and patience, each of the chefs has set about restoring this foodstuff to its former glory, by returning to its original essence: the earth.

Their aim is to work with 100% natural flours, quality wheat and ancient varieties, freshly milled to preserve all the bread's nutritional properties. Far from being a fad, they are all committed to restoring meaning and taste to bread in a virtuous ecosystem.

  • Mitron Bakery, Menton

63eb53ff0ac84537ed03a99d

Matteo Carassale

By opening Mitron Bakery in 2020, 4-Toque chef Mauro Colagreco aims to rehabilitate bread as a universal food with essential nutrients. In addition to taste, his approach calls into question production and consumption methods, with the aim of offering bread that respects the environment and those who eat it. To complement this approach, the chef has acquired his own mill in Menton to produce his organic and natural flours. As for baking, it's done the old-fashioned way in the 1906 wood-fired oven. A special place to discover!

8, rue Piéta, 06500 Menton

  • Levain, in Kaysersberg

63eb53ff0ac84537ed03a9a6

"I think deep down I've always wanted to work with bread, to have my own bakery. But, as with everything I do, I had to achieve excellence," confides Olivier Nasti, our Chef of the Year 2023. His meeting with Luc Roux, a baker in Digne-les-Bains, was decisive. Rémi Vanoverschelde, one of his former cooks, joined the adventure and became head baker to Luc Roux before joining Levain. All the flours are organic, and the natural sourdough is homemade. The chef's aim is to offer products with incomparable taste. Every week, since its opening in summer 2022, the 120-year-old wooden kneading trough is used to knead a dough made with khorasan flour, whose nutty butter flavors delight the village.

9, rue du Général-de-Gaulle, 68240 Kaysersberg

www.lech ambard.fr

  • Suzanne & Lucien, in Noisy-le-Grand

63eb53ff0ac84537ed03a9a3

"I started making bread in 1984 as an apprentice, and immediately loved the contact with dough."After opening his brasserie Les Mérovingiens, Jacky Ribault (2 toques at L'Ours, Vincennes, and Qui Plume la Lune, Paris) had the opportunity to take over the premises of a former florist a stone's throw from the brasserie. The choice was made: he would turn it into a bakery in homage to his mother, and a butcher's shop in memory of his father and his childhood years on the farm. "Today, I'm living the dream. Here, everything is made on site. The loaves are made with homemade sourdough, and fermented for a long time to bring back the breads of yesteryear, which could be kept for a week and were often the centerpiece of the meal."To revive these traditions, he bought a 1971 2CV van to deliver bread to his restaurants, which are now self-sufficient when it comes to bread.

28, avenue Émile-Cossonneau, 93160 Noisy-le-Grand

  • Thierry Marx Bakery, Paris

63eb53ff0ac84537ed03a9a9

Mathilde de l'Ecotais

All breads are made with organically grown cereals and flours from mills located in the Paris region. Here, cooking and bread go hand in hand. "My passion for bread goes back to my childhood. I've made a wish hundreds of times: one day, I'll have a bakery where there'll be good bread", confides the cathodic 4-toque chef. Wish granted. The bakery also offers street food, with homemade sandwiches made by the minute. Let's try it!

51, rue Laborde, 75008 Paris

www.thie rrymarxbakery.fr

  • Julien Duboué, B.O.U.L.O.M. The bakery where you eat, in Paris

63eb53ff0ac84537ed03a9a0

One place, two concepts. At B.O.U.L.O.M., Julien Duboué (1 toque) has succeeded in combining a front-of-house bakery with a restaurant featuring an all-you-can-eat buffet, accessed through a small door at the back of the bakery. His inspiration was the village bread oven, in which dishes were simmered once the bread was baked. Here, the concept is the same: dishes are baked in the extinguished ovens while awaiting service. As for the breads, they're made the old-fashioned way, with sourdough, from organically grown wheat selected in the South-West and crushed in the region's last windmill. Since April 2018, when it opened, the place hasn't been empty.

181, rue Ordener, 75018 Paris

www.boulom.net

These news might interest you

Fanny Rey in 5 dishes News & Events

Fanny Rey in 5 dishes

Fanny Rey, chef at the Auberge de Saint-Rémy, talks to us about the dishes that have marked her career. A dive into the chef's world that should make you want to take a trip to Provence.
The Cheffes! 2025: A not-to-be-missed solidarity event News & Events

The Cheffes! 2025: A not-to-be-missed solidarity event

The Cheffes! festival returns for two editions in Paris and Marseille in spring 2025. Discover the program of festivities.
Seaweed bliss Craftsmen & Know-How

Seaweed bliss

Jean-Marie and Valérie Pédron gather, preserve and process seaweed from the Guérande peninsula, delivering it to France's top chefs. The couple also aim to democratize the use of this coastal treasure, which is rarely used in cooking.
10 places to discover Alsace's specialities Tables & Chefs

10 places to discover Alsace's specialities

Fancy a tarte flambée or a real sauerkraut? Here are ten addresses in eastern France where you can indulge in Alsatian specialities.
A new chapter at Bastide de Moustiers with Valentin Fuchs News & Events

A new chapter at Bastide de Moustiers with Valentin Fuchs

A new era for Bastide de Moustiers. Alain Ducasse has entrusted the kitchens of his Provencal restaurant to Valentin Fuchs, a chef trained in some of the world's top establishments, who will give pride of place to seasonal cuisine.
News & Events

A renowned address, refined cuisine and an unexpectedly affordable menu. in Rouen, on the banks of the Seine, this emblematic restaurant has taken up the challenge of making gastronomy more affordable without sacrificing quality. For lunch and dinner, diners can enjoy a 5-toque restaurant for no more than €50, a far cry from the usual prices for this type of establishment. Prestigious cuisine at affordable prices While this offer may come as a surprise in an establishment of this level, it is part of a carefully thought-out approach. The business menu, priced at €49 and served from Wednesday to Friday at lunchtime and from Wednesday to Thursday at dinnertime, allows haute cuisine enthusiasts to enjoy a gastronomic experience at an unusual price. The menu features dishes conceived in a spirit of sharing and conviviality: snails with mushroom fricassee and parsley cream, braised veal chuck and sautéed vegetables... Dishes that evolve with the seasons and harvests. Coming soon, a salmon and haddock tartare with Thai mayonnaise and wasabi mousse will enrich the menu. A great chef behind this initiative Behind this initiative is Gilles Tournadre, Rouen's emblematic chef, at the helm of Gill restaurant since 1984. Awarded 5 toques, he sublimates his terroir with a sincere, generous and lively cuisine, tinged with influences from his many trips to Japan. His commitment earned him a place in the Gault&Millau Academy in 2024, and he was named Gault&Millau d'Or at the Gault&Millau Tour Normandie 2025. With this menu, he aims to make gastronomy more accessible, without compromising on high standards or quality. This ambition is also reflected in the Young Gourmets offer, available until March 31 and reserved for those under 35. On the menu: a cocktail, starter, fish, meat, dessert, two glasses of wine and a hot drink, all for €85. Book online or by phone at 0235711614. Where? 8-9 Quai de la Bourse, 76000 Rouen

Food products, kitchen equipment, tableware, service solutions...

See the full list of partners who place their trust in Gault&Millau

All our partners
Become a Partner
LEARN MORE