Where can I find a good cider brandy?

Florence Saint-Martin et Marc Esquerré | 6/18/24

Made from cider apples, cider brandy is little known. Here's a closer look at how it's made, and where you can pick up a bottle.

A classic distillation process

Breton lambig has benefited from an AOC since 2015, with very strict specifications. Like calvados, it's a cider brandy. The method is the same: distillation of cider, or fermentation of apple juice in a still, which here gives its name to the brandy: Lambig Breton. Distillation is the process of separating and purifying the components of a product (an apple) by heating and then cooling it in a still. As the alcohol extract from the fermentation residue is close to 70°, it is cut with water to bring it down to around 40°, so that it can be marketed (and consumed). The distillate is aged in oak barrels for a minimum of two years.

A historic practice

Originally, Breton lambig was produced on the farm to sell off surplus cider, as was the case on many Normandy farms. Orchard owners distilled their fruit, and traces of distillation have been found as far back as the 8th century. Owner-harvesters were later replaced by bouilleurs de cru (distillers), who moved from farm to farm to carry out distillation. An enviable status, as even today they are partially exempt from distillation duties (currently 50% on the first 10 liters of alcohol).

A limited market

The geographical delimitation concerns the 375 communes located in the five departments of so-called historic Brittany (Finistère, Côtes-d'Armor, Morbihan, Ille-et-Vilaine and Loire-Atlantique). Today, some twenty producers are authorized to produce within the geographical delimitation, and 100,000 bottles are sold each year.

7 distilleries worth a visit

❤ Distillerie du Gorvello

Since 2012, the aptly named Nicolas Poirier has been farming 24 ha organically. A range specializing in the transformation of apples and pears into eaux-de-vie, pommeaux, ciders, poirés and "ocni", unidentified cider objects, processed in their own still and aged in oak barrels on site.

Tasting notes: A very straw-colored whisky, attractive and brilliant. A powerful nose of undergrowth, honey and fruit (apple and pear) with toasty aromas. An enveloping, honeyed sweetness on the palate, all suave, with vegetal and peppery notes, a certain viscosity of a well-made, accomplished lambig of fine complexity. An elegant, racy eau-de-vie.

Price: 29.50 euros (50cl)
16/20
Route de Pébéyec - Le Gorvello 56250 Sulniac
distilleriedugorvello.fr

La cidrerie de Rozavern

In the heart of the Crozon peninsula and the Armorique regional park, this cider mill boasts some 50 varieties of apples grown organically on 15 hectares of orchards. It offers a range of award-winning ciders, including AOP Cornouaille, pommeau de Bretagne and lambig AOC Breton. On-site and local sales.

Tasting notes: A pronounced cognac color. A well-crafted organic, with a pleasant nose of peony, rose jam and slightly smoky toast, evolving towards pastry notes of palet breton. The fleshy, spicy palate has presence and a certain finesse, with notes of marc, on a woody, chocolaty finish.

Price: 32 euros (70cl)
15/20
Kerferman - 29560 Telgruc-sur-Mer
www.rozavern.fr

Séhédic Cider

In 2023, Hervé and Pamela Darondeau, who trained as agricultural engineers, took over Séhédic and its Ecocert-certified orchards, which have grown 35 varieties of apples organically since 2005. All stages of production are carried out on site. A complete range (ciders, apple juice, fines and pommeaux) for direct sale.

Tasting notes: A well-balanced, flawless product, with a light amber color like a young islay. On the nose, it's a rather robust and typical lambig, rather well made, full of fruit evolving towards notes of tatin, lacking a little length on the palate, with no rough edges, like a delicacy, an apple barley sugar with hints of licorice and ginger.

Price: 50-55 euros (50cl)
15/20
1, route de Fouesnant 29940 La Forêt-Fouesnant
www.cidre-sehedic.fr

Distillerie des Menhirs

Francès Le Lay was the first to buy a still in 1921. Her descendant Guy Le Lay launched Distillerie des Menhirs in 1986 and Brittany's first lambig three years later. Today, the distillery produces artisanal ciders, pommeaux, lambigs and buckwheat whiskies (Eddu). Visits and tastings by appointment.

Tasting notes: A beautiful golden cognac color, with a pleasant, honeyed, fruity nose of buttery apples. The palate is consensual, a little smooth, with persistent aromas of pine, spices (cinnamon, cumin) and honey, quite soft and well-typed. The finish is markedly woody, with a hint of vanilla.

Price: 27 euros (70cl)
14,5/20
7, hent Saint-Philibert 29700 Plomelin
www.distillerie.bzh.fr

Distillerie Warenghem

The distillery tells a family story, that of the heirs of Léon Warenghem, the creator, with the Leizour family. Since the very beginning, in 1900, production has flowed freely, reaching around 200,000 liters of pure alcohol. The cider brandies are distilled and aged in oak barrels. Discovery workshops on request.

Tasting notes: The appearance is classic, the nose young and well present, smelling of new vanilla barrels and a certain liveliness of herbs and spring flowers, apple and salted butter caramel. Tasting confirms a good, stable, well-oriented structure, with youth and liveliness on notes of cereal and baked apple.

Price: 30-32 euros (70cl)
14/20
Route de Guingamp - 22300 Lannion
www.distillerie-warenghem.bzh.fr

Vergers de Kermao

Brieug Saliou took over the business from his parents in 2019, expanding the range, still produced with the orchard's apple trees. The range includes ciders (brut, demi-sec), apple juices, pommeaux, lambigs de Bretagne, cider vinegars and apple or cider jellies. The company's short-run sales network fosters a relationship of trust with its customers.

Tasting notes: A classic caramel-gold color tending towards red. The nose is straightforward and consensual, without great complexity, with a strong alcohol presence and hints of pepper and candied ginger. The palate remains slightly smoky, with apple, milk chocolate, candied orange and a syrupy finish.

Price: 25 euros (50cl)
13,5/20
12, hent Kermao - 29950 Gouesnac'h
www.cidre-bretagne.fr

Manoir du Kinkiz

Hervé Seznec, son of a campaigner for AOP Cornouaille and AOC cider eaux-de-vie, is heir to a great savoir-faire. These include the blending of ancient varieties for Fouesnant ciders, AOP Cornouaille and "Cuvée Blanche", AOC pommeau de Bretagne, lambig, apple juice and chouchen. Cellar visit, tasting and sales at the estate.

Tasting notes: A pretty whisky hue, a hoppy beer with caramel nuances. An interesting peony-floral nose, blending spring flowers and honey, quite woody. Well-balanced on the palate, despite a slightly drying texture, revealing roundness and fruitiness with great clarity and controlled strength.