It's best eaten cold on toast, or warmed up and enjoyed on its own, with a glass of white costières. The qualities of a good brandade lie in the fish and its density in the preparation, as well as in the seasoning. Here are 6 good places to find it.
Whether you come for the Rencontres de la Photographie (until September 25) or to finally form an opinion on Gehry's UFO (the LUMA foundation, inaugurated last year), Arles is for many the essential stop-off point of an accomplished summer.