If, like Nicolas Tribet, you've spent nearly fifteen years at Le Divellec, one of the historic temples of marine cuisine, you can boast of having mastered the recipe for skate wing with barberry berries or pan-fried tuna tournedos with red wine and blackcurrant reduction. It's this expertise that we come to find at Vent d'Armor, whose iodized air blows beautifully over the Quai de la Tournelle. In the dining room, Olivier Friant, who has been with the restaurant since it opened and is also a former member of Le Divellec's team, skilfully recommends a fine cellar of white wines.