Jarvis Scott has faithfully transposed the bistro concept to the 21st arrondissement, respecting the codes of Parisian propriety, including tattoos and caps, a counter with high (very high) stools, a sharing table upstairs and a pocket lazarette. Having passed through Top Chef and the Manigold network (most recently at Liquide), he knows how to delegate to his chef Mathis an appropriate production, which feels right for the times and the environment in this modest room in the center: whelk salad, tarama with seaweed and caper leaves for a fresh, lamb's lettuce appetizer, a well-cooked slab of old beef on a bed of chard from a nearby garden, basil coulis and bone bisque, and spiced up with a crumble-like peanut-harissa condiment. We finish with a harmless dessert, accompanied by a glass of wine chosen from outside the conventional vineyards, all for around sixty euros.