There's always something surprising and whimsical about this singular establishment. And it's often a pleasure, in this well-kept, parquet-floored dining room, to let oneself be carried away by these changing, well-imagined menus, such as the latest "Versatile" at €33: fish rillettes with fennel-cucumber mustard, ballottine of pig jus with ginger, zucchini and split peas, far breton with cherries and vanilla ice cream.