Son's little brother, or son's son, as you please: either way, this bistro is not just a back-up for Sylvain Renzetti, but a second address that matches the first in many ways: thoughtful, imaginative cuisine, clean, attractive formulas, good work that also borders on two toques: tzatziki petit pois huître et concombre, sturgeon basse température granny citron vert céleri et piquillos, poulet berkoukes et jus de viande "souvenir de Carthage", in a fresh, wood-panelled setting.