Twenty minutes from Angers, on the banks of the Loire River, chef Simon Barrault treats diners at lunchtime to an ultra-low price (€23), with market cuisine where creativity has pride of place. Home-smoked fish accompanies a fregola sarda salad with tarragon vinaigrette, before a grilled horse mackerel on the skin, melting inside, polenta, chive cream and spring vegetables. Dessert is on the same level, and we're tempted by a crackling cabbage, vanilla and hazelnut burst to great effect. A special mention for the wine list, which gives pride of place to local winemakers, far from the big names but respectful of a terroir and nature. Once the service matches the level of the cuisine, this table will have a bright future ahead of it. In the evening, an à la carte menu highlights the obvious potential of this house, which already deserves a chef's hat.