The rue du Cherche-Midi has no shortage of (good) restaurants, but it would be wrong to ignore Sébastien Leroy's. Underneath a pretty veneer that blends his rural origins with his former work as a film decorator, he is first and foremost an excellent chef, whose sense of the product is matched by a fine, precise technique: scallops, Jerusalem artichoke, radish and ponzu for a lively starter; sea bass, carrot, chard and parsley cream, a round dish with an assertive vegetal character, before a well-made pear, almond and fromage blanc cake, though perhaps a little more subdued. Smiling service, a plus this year.