At the far end of the quays, Kevin Gourret's establishment is a sure bet. It's a pleasure to sit here. Elegance and comfort in the dining room. A hushed atmosphere too. Service is in unison. Discreet but attentive. The cuisine is not dull, however! The dishes are well thought out. They are inspired by the zeitgeist. Fermentation and acidity (under control!) punctuate well-considered, technically accurate compositions, such as the scallops associated with beet in almost all its forms: creamy, reduced, foamed with yuzu and puréed on fermented cabbage. It's all a bit convoluted. The beautiful pollack cooked at low temperature is accompanied by asparagus from La Torche (green on the barbecue and in coulis) and white (fermented). The citrus hollandaise sauce is highly addictive. As for dessert, it ventures happily south with pistachio, black lemon and Menton lemon in gel, pulp, zest and sorbet. The wine list features some sixty serious and often organic wines.
Kévin Gourret Chef
