Solid chef Frédéric Duca has well and truly found his niche with this human-scale restaurant with well-placed chef's hats. It has the allure of a bistro, like its neighbors down the street, but the distinction and plate of a multi-toque chef who knows how to make the most of his produce. The result is a high-flying meal with blue crab mayonnaise with avocado sorrel vadouvan shellfish ice cream, scallops with chard and artichoke in a Noilly Prat sauce, sweetbreads with leek and gnocchi with lemon confit and razor clam parsley. The bill hovers around €100, which, after the last spoonful of chocolate and tonka ice cream dessert, seems well deserved. As bait, the rather simple lunch menu at €49.