Restaurant Philippe et Clément Brun

43580 ALLEYRAS

16.5/20
Remarkable Restaurant

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2 PHOTOS

Chef Philippe et Clément Brun

Cooking Gastronomic

Services Accomodation | For people with disabilities | Pets allowed

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

68€ à 120€

Gault&Millau's review

16.5/20

Remarkable Restaurant It's like an irresistible urge to settle here for good, and let yourself be pampered by the Brun family. A small bridge, a miniature train station, a green and steep environment... And this house, tirelessly maintained and modernized, offers a delightful rest to the countless hikers, bikers... who criss-cross the region. Nothing showy, nothing overdone. Only authenticity and kindness oxygenate this heartfelt stopover. Michelle, urban and attentive, glides from table to table in an elegantly comfortable, spacious dining room. She is assisted by her daughter-in-law Camille, who hasn't completely given up on her first passion: pastry-making. For their part, Philippe and Clément offer a cuisine that makes the most of local heritage without ever lapsing into anaesthetizing conservatism. It may sometimes succumb to "fashion", but is always technically irreproachable, tasty and never boring. Be careful, however, not to over-demonstrate by making certain compositions too complex. From our last visit, for example, let's take a look at this troutviche with a hint of chilli, combined with avocado, tarama and boulghour. More surprisingly, but why not? Lamb sweetbreads with anchovy butter. To follow, a superb Haute-Loire salmon, confit to perfection, sprinkled with tomato powder à la provençale. To escort it, broccoli mousseline and pickles boosted by a red wine shallot condiment. The whole dish is drizzled with a shiso broth. It's bloody good fun! As is the pollack, carried by a seductive burst of vegetal flavors: tamarind, blackberries, radishes and meadowsweet emulsion. The sea will still be present at meat time. Cockles keep company with a beautiful piece of pig flanked by a brunoise of vegetables, almonds, chanterelles and an apricot condiment. While the potato gnocchi don't really stand out, the airy, unavoidable porcini purée is always a delight! The very fine cheese cart then gives way to desserts that bear witness to careful thought and meticulous execution: a variation on raspberry and a local whisky, or this princely marriage: roasted apricot, panacotta perfumed with sweet woodruff, sorbet and arugula gel... The extensive wine list plays it safe, even with older vintages. On the Rhône: Gripa, Gangloff, Villard, Montez, Combier, Stephan, Cuilleron...In Burgundy: Coche-Dury, Boillot; Domaine Tempier in Bandol...

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