The location is the restaurant's first argument: set on the Garonne, the setting is rare. The glassed-in dining room makes the most of it, even if table comfort and brightness could be improved. The cuisine is sincerely bistronomic and locavore. The €48 Garonne menu offers three well-constructed dishes: brioche snails with a kir royal sorbet that really works, a generous and deep miso chuck, and a technically solid chocolate dessert. The combinations of textures and tastes are well thought-out. Dressing is meticulous. The wine list is serious, anchored in Bordeaux and its appellations.