Restaurant Julien Binz

Rating: 16
Author: Gault&Millau

7 Rue des Cigognes, 68770 Ammerschwihr, France

16/20
Remarkable Restaurant

BOOK

9 PHOTOS

Chef: Julien Binz
Cooking: Signature cuisine
Services: Access for people with disabilities | Children's Menu | Pets allowed

Budget (€)

Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

59 to 134

Gault&Millau's review 2026

From the moment you enter, Julien Binz’s home exudes a certain air of refinement: a mural inspired by Fragonard’s “La Fontaine d’amour,” a large Napoleon III mirror, mouse-gray wood paneling, tassels, black lace, and gilded sculptures come together to create a setting that embraces both ornamentation and brilliance. Trained under Haeberlin, Gaertner, and Westermann, the chef champions an enlightened, sometimes globally inspired classic cuisine, committed to fine ingredients, contrasts, and accompanying side dishes that lend his compositions their dynamism. His “Tomato Story” provides the most brilliant demonstration of this: chipotle-infused tomato water, a brunoise tartlet, vanilla-pickled cherry tomatoes, stracciatella, a remarkable Green Zebra sorbet with basil, balsamic-marinated watermelon, and smoked gazpacho come together in a rich medley whose acidity—masterfully balanced—ensures cohesion. The turbot, confit at a low temperature in verbena oil, has melt-in-your-mouth flesh, enhanced by roasted almonds, celery, and a verbena-lemongrass beurre blanc of great precision, though the bitter almond extract seems to overemphasize the flavor here. With the French lamb, the dish takes an Eastern turn: a melt-in-your-mouth chop and cromesquis of shoulder confit coated in panko breadcrumbs find a precise and indulgent counterpoint in the date, olive, and lemon sauce. Alsatian strawberries bring the meal to a joyful, spectacular close: a cubed Norwegian omelet, a nod to the 1970s; strawberries marinated in elderflower; and an edible soap bubble encasing a wisp of Tagada strawberry smoke—all of which evoke childhood memories without the virtuosity veering into gimmickry. Elegant and attentive, the service contributes fully to the restaurant’s harmonious atmosphere, while the succession of thoughtful touches—right down to the house-made chocolates—pleasantly maintains the rhythm. Finally, the wine cellar possesses a unique character: the Kaefferkopf grand cru in its many forms, old vintages from Maurice Schoech, and wines from mixed-varietal vineyards and macerated wines stand alongside Burgundian excellence, with a by-the-glass selection of rare depth.