Pierre Gagnaire's signature is unmistakable at this distinguished restaurant, and the two toques are well worth their weight in gold, on a marine cuisine that's both modern and bourgeois, nourished by the finest ingredients and set in an elegant café setting: beef tartare with oysters, crispy fennel squid with soubressade, crusty pollack with white miso, strawberry macaroonade with ribot milk foam. Superb seafood platter for connoisseurs, lunch menu €69.