On the road between Sarreguemines and Bitche, a large building overgrown with vegetation. Welcomed by the mother of the chef, Julien Dimofski, we still appreciate the somewhat austere décor, with its dark beams and brick-colored floor tiles, but the five-course menu at €115 offers plenty of scope for escape. After the Scottish salmon gravlax with orange butter, followed by two just-stiffened langoustines and their fumet, seaweed chips and blueberry blossom, we move on to the sea bass pavé with crispy skin, eggplant caviar, cherry tomatoes, tapenade and preserved lemon. Grilled rack of lamb with thyme and early garlic, pink ribs, green and yellow zucchini, zucchini flowers and mashed potatoes with garlic emulsion is a classic example of a cuisine that is certainly worthy, but lacks the zest and precision we once knew. The meal ends with white peach in verbena nage, raspberry sorbet. The service is simple but friendly, and the wine cellar is fairly classic, featuring winemakers from Alsace, Lorraine and Burgundy.