The simplicity of this slightly faded Logis Hôtel is endearing, in keeping with a French tradition that is struggling to survive outside the city. And yet, there are a few regional assets, too timidly put forward, to assert a locavore desire. The homemade marbled ham is quite good, in this typical setting with its rustic china cabinet, tapestries on the wall and fireplace. There's andouillette from Lemelle, but we'd like to see a little more craftsmanship, for example in the sauce accompanying the chicken fillet or in the red fruit coulis on the faisselle (a homemade jam with local fruit, for example). Dedicated service from owner Jacky Vuillemin, a Chablis cellar with some good suggestions by the glass.