Racines

Rating: 14
Author: Gault&Millau

35000 RENNES

14/20
Chef's Restaurant

BOOK

6 PHOTOS

Chef: Virginie Giboire
Cooking: French | Gastronomic | Healthy cooking | Local | Modern
Services: Access for people with disabilities
Style: Elegant | Romantic | With family

Budget (€)

Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

45 to 100

Gault&Millau's review 2026

The team in the dining room is a pleasure to watch. Whether employees, trainees or apprentices, they work with ease and dedication under the leadership of Fabien Hacques. The same can be said of Virginie Giboire's kitchen, which is completely open to the public. There's an infectious energy in this hypercentre restaurant, nestled in a residential island that's a little cold, in contrast to the elegantly appointed dining room, which makes the most of high-quality materials. In the evening, the festivities revolve around a single menu, punctuated by numerous sequences illustrating a fresh, light cuisine, with markers that are very much in tune with the times: dashi, bear's garlic, seaweed, bao bread, panko, shiso... Take, for example, the lively asparagus with fir buds and a lemon condiment, complemented by a verjuice reduction of "young shoots". A successful contrast of flavors with a monkfish that crisps slightly under the effect of the breading. Carried by notes of elderberry in the form of an emulsified juice, it is also adorned with subtle garlic flavors. Marinated and then cooked at low temperature, the pig from a neighboring department offers all its tenderness. The meat is enhanced by its vegetable surroundings: carrot, arugula and morel mushrooms. Another dish? This classy dessert is impeccably light and full-bodied. Harmony of scents, flavors and textures... with coffee, chocolate, amaretto, vanilla, shiso... A wine list based on established names, such as Château Yvonne's saumur, Taille aux Loups' montlouis, Catherine and Pierre Breton's bourgueil, Château Mont-Redon's châteauneuf-du-pape, or Château Sainte-Marguerite's côtes-de-provence.