A successful restaurateur (Racines, Vivant, Parais, Noglu, la Crèmerie), David Lahner has always had a talent for surrounding himself with the right people. In his restaurant opposite Saint-Thomas d'Aquin church, he recruited Matthias Marc alumnus Zakariya Badda, who brilliantly took over from Alexandre Navarro. Well-sourced products, tried-and-tested recipes, but each time with the personal touch that allows this address to rise above the fray with beautiful scallops, snacked artichokes barigoule, spinach and (generously) lemony beurre blanc and a very classic pavlova with citrus and timut pepper. Service in the right tone, between connivance and casualness, well thought-out cellar, canaille just right.