In this Passage des Panoramas, where amazed tourists and Parisians on lunch break cross paths in a permanent human traffic jam, there are a few gourmet stops (we wouldn't dare say refuges, so much the bustle of the passage seems to spread right into the restaurant rooms) including this Racines where Simone Tondo offers her vision of transalpine cuisine, fragrant, generous and sunny: polpette al sugo and polenta, excellent vitello tonnato, generous veal Milanese style before a competition tiramisu. The best choice is undoubtedly the tasting menu at €60 (3 starters, a pasta dish of your choice and a tiramisu), while the cellar with its strong Italian accents is the perfect accompaniment to the plates.