Pure & V par Maison Joia

Rating: 13.5
Author: Gault&Millau

06000 NICE

13.5/20
Chef's Restaurant

BOOK

Cooking: French | Vegetarian
Style: Bistro/Brasserie | With friends

Budget (€)

Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

145

Gault&Millau's review 2026

Vanessa Masse is now a figure of gastronomy with her Pure et V, tucked away in the high school street, with the cooking of local produce entrusted to a Scandinavian chef. An interesting "side step", to juxtapose on the plate the precision of execution of these great performers, and the color and texture of Mediterranean cuisine. On the face of it, there's everything here to make this an exceptional dining experience, especially since the owner is one of France's finest sommeliers. It's a pity that the experience is so constrained and marked out, with its litany of injunctions to pleasure and its ceremonial. Each dish, each creation, deserves a little more time... provided that you enjoy more generous plates to better savor the idea. The mullet sashimi with physalis is very good. The zucchini flower, hollandaise, elderberry, capers and pistachios is a real success. As for the main courses, we'll remember this quail service. In particular, the trio of sucrine, quail and fermented grape juice sauce. Delicious. The desserts are in the same vein, very good, but very light, leaving us a little hungry. Of particular note is the kombucha flower bavarois, or the pavlova with dehydrated strawberries and a hint of fig. The wine list is the fruit of real choices, and we'd like to see wines by the glass given more prominence, and better served in glasses, with a slight overall feeling of being at the end of their tether, even if prices remain in good shape.