Poya

Rating: 12.5
Author: Gault&Millau

73150 VAL-D'ISÈRE

12.5/20
Gourmet Restaurant

BOOK

10 PHOTOS

Chef: Hugo Dias
Cooking: French | Modern
Style: Altitude | Exceptional setting | With family

Gault&Millau's review 2026

Do you have a good restaurant in Val-d'Isère, with a good atmosphere and not too expensive? No... I'll explain! If you don't have the reference, you'll need to catch up: it was here that Thierry Lhermitte, a young ski instructor a little too sure of himself, tried to sell shoes that were always too small to Josiane Balasko, who was as endearing as she was delightfully grumpy. Yes, this cult scene from Les Bronzés font du ski was filmed here in 1979. Much later, the set became a restaurant. We're in the heart of Val-d'Isère's Avenue Olympique. An uninterrupted succession of festive addresses, glued together, in what looks an awful lot like a high-altitude "rue de la Soif". Ambiance guaranteed, culinary interest much less so. And then, in 2022, a step aside was spotted: that of Charles Roux-Mollard, a young entrepreneur from the village, determined to try something different. Gault&Millau took him up on the idea of a "young chefs" address. Three years later, after some hesitation, chef Hugo Dias Soeiro is back with a clearer, more Alpine cuisine, somewhere between Savoie and the Aosta Valley. And, above all, better. Quite simply. We start with a very effective alpine soup, spiced up with diced fontine and Arnad bacon. It's straightforward, comforting and perfectly in place. The trout confit, Jerusalem artichoke and vin jaune work very well, as do the burnt leeks, confit egg yolk and vinaigrette, simple and precise. Main courses oscillate between Alpine markers - rack of lamb in a crust and creamy polenta - and finer proposals, such as Arctic char, mushrooms and a very light Savoy roussette emulsion. The presence of veal escalope Milanese or pasta with tomato is more questionable. On the other hand, for fans of braised meats, the rib of beef or shoulder of lamb do the job perfectly. Desserts are clearly cook's desserts: not very demonstrative, but effective. The chocolate profiteroles with vanilla ice cream are delightful, while the chocolate pear with génépi is a simple, assertive indulgence. The wine list is still under construction, so we'd recommend the bar's creations. Last but not least: the mocktails, generous and well-crafted, are perfect if you prefer to avoid alcohol - so as not to take the wrong track the next day.