Pierre Gagnaire's take on Italian cuisine means intelligence, refinement and pleasure, right down to vitello tonnato, stracciatella arugula Cremona mustard and black garlic, or paglia e fieno lemon butter gorgonzola and nduja. The simple yet welcoming setting allows you to move from trattoria to ristorante, with truly inspired dishes such as tuna crudo with colatura bigarade, or suckling lamb shoulder confit with marjoram, ratte quenelle and wild garlic pesto. Good desserts, including a tiramisu de concours, Botte wines.