Omnivore

Name: Omnivore
Address: 1 Place Gramont, Pau, Nouvelle-Aquitaine, 64000, FR
Telephone: +33559279808
Rating: 13

64000 PAU

13/20
Chef's Restaurant

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Chef: Stéphane Cunin
Cooking: French | Modern
Services: Access for people with disabilities | Private Parking
Style: Bistro/Brasserie | With family | With friends

Gault&Millau's review

13/20

Chef's Restaurant Overlooking the elegant Place de Gramont, a neoclassical gem where time seems suspended between pale stone and arcades, this bistronomic restaurant is run by Stéphane Cunin. Born in the Vosges but from Béarn at heart, this chef has embraced the vegetables and climate of the South, which he applies to his clear, limpid, Mediterranean-scented market cuisine. The freshness of zucchini, worked in several textures and enhanced with cherries and hazelnuts, sublimates a vegetable with a reputation for blandness, which here takes on relief. Smoked stracciatella, with its coulis and bell pepper chips, is guaranteed to bring sunshine to the plate, even if it's topped with a lime granita that's a little too bright. Semi-cooked red tuna with eggplant confit and smoked feta prolongs the Mediterranean thread, before a precisely-cooked veal pavé with an expressive remoulade and fennel in three textures. The meal comes to a light conclusion with the tagetes-passion siphon, its buttery feuillantine crunch and soft blood orange sorbet; or the double-textured brownie, enriched with a subtle Tonka bean ice cream. The convivial atmosphere of the dining room is appreciated. Service is friendly and efficient, despite the pace; it's a pity the dishes aren't announced, to tell the story and highlight this fine cuisine. In the cellar, an excellent selection of discoveries and great names at fair prices. Half the wines are organic. We regret the absence of vintages on the menu and a Chinon that's too chambré on this hot day. It's a place to come back to again and again for its sunny, affordable and inspired cuisine, served with good humor.