Omnivore

Rating: 13
Author: Gault&Millau

64000 PAU

13/20
Chef's Restaurant

BOOK

Chef: Stéphane Cunin
Cooking: French | Modern
Services: Access for people with disabilities | Private Parking
Style: Bistro/Brasserie | With family | With friends

Gault&Millau's review 2026

Bistros of this caliber and at this price are quite rare, but prove that it's possible to produce top-notch cuisine from the classics of the repertoire. Appearances are deceptive: a discreet house on Place Gramont with the air of a brasserie, with its traditional wood panelling, small tablecloth tables and old-fashioned counter, is nonetheless home to a delightfully technical plate. Stéphane Cunin shows great intuition, revisiting recipes with generosity and intelligence: a superb starter of white asparagus, virgin, miso ice cream, Caesar sauce and trout roe, balanced and dense, both iodized and smoky; an anthology of beef and carrots, with filet and crispy effiloché, glazed carrot tops and coche ham; a gianduja siphon and brown sugar ice cream, all lightness. The cellar is quite remarkable, with numerous references from all over the country and renowned winemakers (Dagueneau, Sabre, Braujou, Tissot, Pataille, Foillard...).