Nuance

29120 PLOMEUR

13.5/20
Chef's Restaurant

4 PHOTOS

Chef Jules Rolland

Cooking French | Local

Services Access disabled | Terrace

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

29 € to 85 €

Gault&Millau's review

13.5/20

Chef's Restaurant La Torche...its surf spot, its asparagus...Now it's time to add the Rolland brothers, Jules and Louis! After having dabbled in the food-truck business, they opted for the total renovation of an old roadside pizzeria, fitted out without ostentation, in a relaxed but comfortable and truly charming spirit, especially the main room which opens onto a pleasant terrace and a small garden. The service is part and parcel of the festivities. It's efficient and friendly. As for the cuisine, it demonstrates a keen sense of cooking and pairing. It's vibrant, daring and seductive! Like this superb pollock, smoked with lemon peel, combined with celery in different textures, embellished with a watercress coulis and hints of buckwheat. The brill, carried by a delicate fish aroma, expresses all its flavors, well enhanced by the tempered acidity of the sorrel and a hint of vanilla. The vegetable accompaniment (cauliflower, carrot, artichoke) lives up to all its promises without ever taking over, in a beautiful overall balance. The finale heads south with a variation on blood orange, gently flirting with vanilla cream and, more fiercely, with harissa. This "coup de chaud" isn't bad at all! As for the cellar, there's no attempt to be exhaustive, but the selection is relevant, with quality wines from well-known estates at appropriate prices: lirac from domaine Maby, côtes catalanes from domaine Serre Romani, côtes du rhône from domaine Gramenon, mâcon from domaine de la Sarazinière, saumur-champigny Source du Ruault , faugères from Mas Lou...

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