At Nhome, you reserve your seat, not your table. At Matan Zaken, you sit around the single, huge table set up in the pretty vaulted room you discover after passing the open kitchen, at the bottom of a few steps. 5G is not available, which is ideal for concentrating on the dishes and chatting with your neighbors without being constantly bothered by notifications (you can connect to the restaurant's wifi, though...), exchanges that are all the more useful given the chef's choice of a hidden, imposed ten-step menu. The two toques are confirmed on each of our visits, whatever the dishes offered, and the cellar, commented on and built by Ulysse Hivroz, proves to be curious and well-traveled.