This is one of those almost secret, or at least very discreet, tables run by Japanese chefs in the heart of the capital. Hideki Nishi is not the least gifted of this small armada, masterfully interpreting the classics of French gastronomy with great personality and intelligence. The menus are obviously hidden, €65 for lunch in 4 courses, €110 for dinner in 6 courses, and the services are up to the additions.