Julien Caligo has returned to his roots, setting up shop right in the middle of his Vaunage region, in Calvisson. The place, a former farm barn, is sober, almost austere. Yet it's with enthusiasm that we're welcomed, and appreciate the chef's cuisine. Set menus in three, five or seven courses, ranging from €65 to €120, with the option of including an extra course for each menu, made with a majority of local produce. Trout from Le Vigan with inverted beurre blanc and mussel juice, Périgord truffles, pan-fried foie gras, poached fillet of sole with celeriac-mushroom broth... And to round things off, a dessert with pear and Jerusalem artichoke, roasted yeast, puffed spelt and a light but delicious caramelized finish... A very up-to-date regional wine list.