Mirazur

06500 MENTON

18.5/20
Prestige Restaurant

BOOK

15 PHOTOS

Chef Mauro Colagreco

Cooking Gastronomic | specialty

Services Children's menu | For people with disabilities | Garden | Pets allowed | Private parking

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

450€

Gault&Millau's review

18.5/20

Prestige Restaurant Mauro Colagreco's universe is gentle, soothing, like the music distilled in the rotunda-shaped room above the Mediterranean, on the Italian border, at the crossroads of worlds that inspire a cuisine that is firmly rooted and at the same time totally open, and that has never before seemed so refined, committed and focused. Mauro's knowledge of Neruda, as he brings bread to break, goes far beyond agri- and viticulture. Under the sun and moon, which inspire the tides and the life of plants, he composes with wild imagination symphonies between earth, sea and sky, carefully transcribed by his chef Jean-Christophe Bourguignon. In his unique, hand-crafted ceramics, plants are the most common theme, whatever the season. In summer, fruit (zucchini, tomatoes, eggplants...) is king, in winter, roots take over, in the expected display of colorful tableaux: grated vitelotte with colonnata bacon and fresh anchovies is visually beautiful and a delicious bonbon; city dwellers kneel before beet, cream and oscietra caviar, in a kind of sancta rustica simplicitas and rosemary flowers cover the potato veil on shellfish. An experience like this can't be improvised: mental preparation, stretching exercises and a few yoga sessions are essential before you come. For the senses and attention are called upon abundantly by a well-trained and highly motivated team, to taste Thierry Lemarchand's olive oil or butter with bread made from the flours of Roland Feuillas in Cucugnan, and to listen to each of the stories presiding over the creation of a dish, a revelation, a pairing, an inspired encounter between beauty and goodness. Turmeric from the garden colors a powerful sauce that lightly cooks the tiny pea "tears" escorting the large langoustine, while celery comes out the winner in a superb guinea fowl-lobster combination, in different textures and preparations highlighting its intrinsic qualities (earthy, sweet, bitter...). The theme continues through to the excellent desserts (wasabi granité granny ice cream, pear and truffle tart, all light and delicate). An impressive cellar book, with the multiple qualities of the grandes toques (all the prestige crus), a look at the world's vineyards, strongly inspired by modernity (a good touch of nature, choice in orange) and allowing the young sommelier, convinced by the relevance of the pairings, to serve as a guide-explorer.

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