Mirazur

06500 MENTON

18/20
Prestige Restaurant

BOOK

15 PHOTOS

Chef Mauro Colagreco

Cooking Gastronomic | specialty

Services Children's menu | For people with disabilities | Garden | Pets allowed | Private parking

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

450€

Gault&Millau's review

18/20

Prestige Restaurant Nature is beautiful because it knows that here it is respected. So, when a chef as media-savvy as Mauro Colagreco (and his teams) doesn't hesitate to reach for the moon to offer an unprecedented back-to-basics experience, we gladly let ourselves be carried along. His cuisine is dictated by the silver star, which decides whether it's roots, leaves, flowers or fruit. These come from one of the five vegetable gardens the chef has created around the restaurant, as well as from a number of producers and friends who share his vision of respectful cultivation. The 9 stages of the set menu, like so many infernal circles, are initiatory milestones in the rediscovery of nature's benevolence towards mankind. After a few appetizers that hint at the day's "fruit" experience, the chef offers his sharing bread, baked over a wood fire and generously buttered according to his Italian grandmother's recipe, accompanied by a fragrant olive oil that will change according to the theme, as well as a poem by Pablo Neruda: "Bread, of flour, water and fire you make yourself...". The first encounter with cucurbits and gamberoni from the San Remo Gulf is already a symphony of tastes and colors. Aguachile awakens the taste buds, while lardo di Colonnata brings its share of gourmet delights. After that, we're amazed by the work on the plate, with the interlacing of thin strips of apricot and zucchini, with its fermented juice hiding a creamy crab. Then comes Julia Colagreco's tomato trilogy: gaspacho and green zebra sorbet with garden-fresh almonds, tomato water cappuccino and heart of beef tomato on a stracciatella cream, accompanied by caper leaves, the tomato itself "studded" with capers and sardines. Is this what tomatoes taste like? Let's keep a little mystery for the dishes that follow. Basically, I'd say that the iodine works very well with the green beans picked on the day, that the castagnole is adorned with a coat of almonds and ajoblanco, that the duck is beautiful in its braisière and olive wreath... Finally come the desserts, which we owe to brilliant pastry chef Marius Dufay. His yuzu granita on a cream of stracciatella mixed with lightly salted water mint is freshness itself. Then, like a harvest in the undergrowth, the Carros strawberry in declensions, raw, dried, in fine tile, in compote and dressed as if nature had guided the gestures, with sorrel leaves sheltering an acacia cream and sorrel sorbet. In the cellar, the choice is worthy of the place. You can even try a "sans" wine pairing, worked out like a food and wine association. We leave this magical place, still charmed by flawless service, with our heads turned skywards, to pay a last silent tribute to the moon and the chef.