Facing the funicular station leading to the Boulevard des Pyrénées, the veranda is hidden from view behind a curtain of palm trees and bamboo, like a secret garden in the heart of the city. The invitation to take an aperitif on the vast terrace, bathed in light, immediately sets the tone for a gentle escape from the hustle and bustle. The Scandinavian furnishings play the simplicity card, and you'll find yourself savoring the serenity of a setting where greenery seems to watch over the place. In the kitchen, inspiration is drawn from the seasons, local produce and a playful audacity that blends land and sea with disconcerting naturalness. Line hake is adorned with andouillette from the Bigorre region and nori seaweed, blond Aquitaine hides a heart of smoked eel, and tomatoes from the Gers dialogue with Aquitaine caviar and tomato water sorbet. The plates are well-balanced, precise and visually appealing, but never demonstrative, and the menu unfolds in a tasty sequence through to the rustic, fragrant Gascon millas, lightened by a white peach sorbet. The amuse-bouches set the tone - parmesan shortbread with gorgonzola panna cotta topped with melon or cucumber water with santoline - and the mignardises prolong the pleasure with rhubarb tart or hazelnut praline. The uncommonly demanding wine list reflects a commitment to artisanal, organic and biodynamic cuvées, offering as many great names as accessible nuggets, and confirms that this is a house of taste. Only the wine service lacks coordination, a regrettable detail but one that has no impact on the clarity of the cuisine, which has established itself as one of Pau's finest gastronomic signatures.
