Mantra

Rating: 15
Author: Gault&Millau

75009 PARIS

15/20
Remarkable Restaurant

BOOK

9 PHOTOS

Chef: Shasitharan Manogeran
Cooking: Gastronomic | Malaysian | Signature cuisine
Style: Elegant | Romantic

Budget (€)

Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

39 to 145

Gault&Millau's review 2026

Jonathan Caron, whom we met at the helm of the excellent L'Innocence (Paris 9ᵉ), and Manogeran Shasitharan, will have been partners for just two years at Itinérances, the restaurant Jonathan opened in 2023 in Mers-les-Bains (the kitchen is now run by Victor Benoît). The Malaysian chef's cuisine, which may have been too specialized and divisive, had met with great success on the English Channel coast, but seemed much more suited to Parisian clientele. The duo have therefore moved to rue Rodier, in place of the former Condesa, and are pushing even further the travelled and rebellious spirit of the cuisine we had come to know at Mers. In this room the size of a pocket handkerchief, Jonathan Caron juggles tables with ease, making himself the perfect ambassador for a chef with whom he has forged a genuine complicity, passionately presenting the fermented shrimp associated with a date tempura with onion cream and hibiscus powder, then the kohlrabi in the spirit of a pastrami, peanut apple and fermented coconut milk, explaining the progression of the three-course scallop declination - raw and marinated in rose blossom vinegar, lemon and bergamot, poached and married to a lap cheong (Chinese sausage), and finally pan-fried and served with a chili, tamarind and curry aioli - or extolling the virtues of a (magnificent) lobster confit, lobster sambal, smoked goraka and head jus. The dishes follow one another without a break (there are so many, we've lost count), culminating in a sumptuous hot chocolate mousse, black sesame crumble and candied ginger, topped with strokes of shrimp caramel, an explosive marriage of spice, iodine and chocolate sweetness. A small cellar still under construction, but perfectly adapted, ultra-professional service and three well-deserved toques.