A Petrossian counter for chic nibbles with caviar and salmon. The menu extends to a variety of finger-food preparations, all of which are pleasingly refined: smoked salmon and avocado pizzette, croque-monsieur with mature caviar, oyster declensions, not forgetting signature dishes such as koulibiac, "Coupe du Tsar", tagliatelle with caviar or bottarga. There's good stuff in the glasses too, with Pouilly de Pabiot and Saint-Jo de Montez. Caviar Daurenki" is billed at €84 per 30 g, which, in all relativity, is a fair price.