In this age of Instagrammable dishes designed to capture the fleeting attention of customers eager for convoluted recipes, there are still bastions of simple cooking. For the past two years, Guillaume Tran-tu and Nino Vergez have been offering us first-class fare in a rapidly changing Acropolis district. The short menu is designed to be sharing, with a marrow bone or a pâté-croûte, seasonal with leeks in gribiche sauce or the first white asparagus hollandaise and, finally, classic with the house sausage and its purée au jus, the beautiful pike quenelle, cassoulet or sweetbreads. The dessert list follows the same pattern, with chocolate profiterole, cognac baba and homemade vanilla chantilly (not very glamorous visually, but formidable in taste). Service a little lacking in enthusiasm, good cellar with 80 organic and natural wine references at well-controlled prices. Expect to pay around €50 for a full 3-course meal with a glass of wine.
Chef
