Located between the Ancienne Douane, Petite Venise, and the covered market, this spot might seem like just a stopover, swept up in Colmar’s tourist crowds; but it sets itself apart with cuisine that is genuinely sincere—home-style in spirit, bistro-style in appearance—and crafted with that mastery of concentrated flavor that distinguishes true chefs from mere executors. People don’t come here for the decor: a casual atmosphere suits this place, where Jean Kuentz comes across as a sort of Alsatian Camdeborde—a master of straightforward, unpretentious culinary delights, without unnecessary frills but with sauces that speak loud and clear. The “bouchée à la reine” first strikes you with its unusual proportions—wide and shallow, almost a descendant of the traditional large vol-au-vents—with a crust that has a rich buttery flavor, though its slightly doughy base reveals a mastery of puff pastry that could still be refined; but the gently braised veal and the homemade chicken quenelles placed on top give the dish a lovely presence. The thick slice of salmon, cooked to a perfect pink, rests on a simple, hearty bed of sautéed spinach, while the bergamot and salmon roe beurre blanc adds a subtle, tangy note—very Alsatian in spirit and perfectly balanced. The moist chocolate soufflé with tonka bean, served in a mini De Buyer skillet, captivates with the intensity of dark cocoa, its restrained sweetness, and the rich, well-balanced ice cream. The presentation remains clean and professional, without any pretension. The wine cellar, for its part, reflects a true winemaker’s philosophy: contemporary Alsace, select Burgundy, very compelling Rhône, modern Loire, and characterful Languedoc-Roussillon; the by-the-glass selection remains solid, though a bit conservative when it comes to signature Alsatian wines. It’s a shame that the service is a bit inconsistent and that the pace drags on longer than it should! But let’s focus on what matters: a home-style cuisine that’s elevated, generous, and flavorful, transforming familiar dishes into refined delights.
Jean Kuentz Chef
