Maison Kieny

Rating: 13
Author: Gault&Millau

68400 RIEDISHEIM

13/20
Chef's Restaurant

5 PHOTOS

Chef: Naïn Gamboa
Cooking: French | Gastronomic
Services: Children's Menu | Pets allowed | Private Parking
Style: Romantic

Budget (€)

Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

39 to 69

Gault&Millau's review 2026

Opposite the town hall, the former post office dating from 1850, proudly illuminated and decorated with flowers, has retained all the charm of its era. Today, it houses an Alsatian house, where time seems suspended, imbued with that hushed warmth known as "Gemütlichkeit". Elegantly spaced round tables give everyone the intimacy of a private setting, while new copper sconces add a touch of modernity to the décor without betraying the spirit of the place. Under the benevolent direction of Mariella Kieny, the house has found a new lease of life in the person of Naïn Gamboa, a young chef who graduated from Le Clair de Plume in Grignan. His mixed cuisine takes us on a journey from Alsace's terroir to distant horizons such as Mexico, combining the precision of classic techniques with spices, herbs and sauces that arouse our curiosity without ever detracting from the delicacy of the products. Mediterranean red tuna, worked into ceviche, offers a beautiful interplay of acidity and crunchy textures with pickled radishes and onions. The beef tartare is surprisingly presented in the manner of a mimosa egg: topped with a chipotle mayonnaise, spiced just right, it combines tenderness, gourmandise and a discreet spicy fire. Flame-cooked trout from Alsace melts under the fork and marries with an intense, well-balanced mole verde, complemented by a gourmet onion espuma. The veal entrecôte, tender and fragrant, dialogues with the freshness of peas, samphire and pickles, and is enhanced by a savory jus that concentrates all the nobility of old-fashioned reduced sauces. Florencia Dupont Vazquez's desserts are a real feast. The pavlova, made with an airy, fine meringue, is topped with Earl Grey black tea cream, fresh raspberries and an intense sorbet that prolongs its freshness. The chocolate chou, crisp to perfection, reveals a powerful, well-balanced heart, enhanced by the subtle note of Sichuan pepper; it's accompanied by a mellow cocoa sorbet. The cellar, meanwhile, shines with its audacity and exacting standards, offering a remarkable range of wines by the glass, not to mention a digestif menu rich in treasures. With the opening of this new chapter, Kieny has given itself a breath of fresh air without losing its soul. The experience also stands out for its exceptional value for money.