Of course, we'll always be nostalgic, as many are, for the good old days of Goodfellas. Now that the page has been turned, it's time to move on to Magnolia where, as the team makes no secret of the fact, the ambitions are not quite the same, but neither are the prices. For lunch, the impeccable €29 menu earns a toque for its deviled eggs and anchovies, its slightly regressive Toulouse sausage with mashed potatoes and Roscoff onion jus, and its chef's dessert, perfect with clementine marmalade, pistachios and blood orange. Service a little amateurish, but friendly, cellar under construction.