Logis de la Cadène

33330 SAINT-ÉMILION

15.5/20
Remarkable Restaurant

8 PHOTOS

Chef Thibaut Gamba

Cooking French | Healthy cooking | Signature cuisine

Services Accomodation | Pets allowed

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

60€ à 170€

Gault&Millau's review

15.5/20

Remarkable Restaurant After several years at Clarance in Lille, Thibault Gamba quickly acclimatized to his new Aquitaine base. Benefiting from a well-developed structure with his predecessor Alexandre Baumard, he found abundant gardens, a mushroom quarry and, of course, vines in a superb terroir that he quickly tamed. His mouth-watering dishes (Bazas beef and oyster tartar, sardine cushion and squid ink?), his compositions, always as sharp as ever (we know his high level of technique, especially with saucier), seem even better adapted to this latitude, playing with acidity on squid in blood orange sauce, sea urchin tongues condimented with Bronte pistachios, before happily recalling the Boulogne peach he knows so well, with superb scallops, Jerusalem artichokes and oxalis in a walnut and sauternes sauce. The lack of an à la carte menu in a house of this stature is regrettable, with only six dishes and one dessert on the various menus, but what is done is certainly in the tradition intended by the owner (Château Angelus ), here as at Gabriel Bordelais. The cultivated mushroom tartelette (shiitake, oyster mushroom) is presented as an "emblematic dish", yet it is far surpassed by the Cotinière langoustine, its superb xo bisque and the slight bitterness of the carmine, before the red mullet in peach of the day with fennel confit, pilpil sauce, bone emulsion and reduced heads, sliced with agastache. A good hazelnut and rum soufflé, an obviously opulent cellar, with all the great local wines, including the Château Maison, and big labels galore (three Silex, two Astéroïde, for example), but without extravagance or bias, smooth, smiling and precise service, using the qualifiers "jolie" and "belle" profusely, knowing how to put international customers at ease.