The cobbled ramp is really steep for 12-inch heels, but also for smooth soles in rainy weather: fortunately, the reward is inside this beautiful and venerable dwelling. Thibaut Gamba has made a name for himself here and, with a well-trained front-of-house team, provides a three-toque service in the image of what he showed us for so long at the Clarance in Lille. his approach: fine work, noble products worked with modernity, reassuring technical ease in terms of cooking, combinations and harmonious sequences. In fact, his first menu (excluding the €60 Déjeuner) is entitled Harmonieux, and shows off a good part of the palette: with artichokes in leaf and squid broth reduced with marjoram, barbecued langoustine, raspberry and perilla-scented bisque, mushrooms in buckwheat tartlet and turbot one-sided, cockles and broad beans, sorrel sorbet with pil-pil sauce. Everyone is at their best at every station, including the pastry chef with his roasted strawberries with tagetes timut reduction and rooïbos tea sorbet, and the Bordeaux and Saint-Emilion cellars are voluminous.