This is where we first met Ismail Guerre-Genton and his wife Inès Rodriguez, who charmed us for eight years at the helm of Empreinte, winning three toques and a number of fine awards in the process. Their successor, Karl Widmer, isn't there yet, but even though he's still in his thirties, he's not lacking in technique or personality: very fine asparagus from the Pont d'Achelles farm to start with, delicate scallops with tasty peas and wild garlic, a fine job on hake en barigoule with a dessert that cleverly revisits lemon, here fermented and burnt and combined with tarragon, between sweetness and vivacity. A rather short cellar, but with committed choices, an address that seems to be off to an excellent start.