The delightful village of Les Vans, a popular summer destination for tourists with often comfortable purchasing power, has been home for some 15 years to this unique restaurant which, beneath its almost modest exterior, is in reality a veritable nugget. At the helm are Cyriel Huysentruyt, the perfect master of ceremonies, and his chef Guido Niño Torres, a duo who share the same restaurant codes of casualness and personality. Bathed in Colombian and Ardèche influences, the plates are remarkable for their precision and personality, sometimes exuberant in their composition, sometimes more direct, but always retaining that technicality that makes for great dishes: ceviche of Villefort trout, langoustine, tomatoes and stracciatella, fine fat beef from the Mézenc, marrow and snails in a great "Bonche" menu that gives a lot for just over 150 euros. The small tables upstairs, overlooking the open kitchen, are very popular, and the wine cellar is fascinating and commented on with conviction by Cyriel Huysentruyt.