Even on the Ile d'Yeu, we've had to adapt to changing circumstances, and Les Bafouettes has extended its takeaway service throughout the year. But it's still a highly recommendable stop-off, to sample this lovely classic cuisine with its ocean (cod marinated in lime, smoked potato purée and artichoke barigoule) and land (duck fillet, shiitake crisp and red cabbage compote) sides, on a coherent €38 menu. For lunch only, a good formula at €31 for a complete sequence.