A timeless bistro, a refuge in these times of carnivorous dearth, gently rebellious and committed. The welcome is always friendly, the setting cheerful with a few mischievous flourishes, the service infallible and knows how to keep the mill turning: it's all buzz and chatter in a gavroche atmosphere, with gribiche calf's head, homemade sausage, dense mashed potatoes, raspberry tart, desserts being less of a specialty. A cutting-edge cellar, with numerous discoveries, even for enlightened amateurs, and a fine selection by the glass.