The neighborhood is moving, the shovels are working, but a few bastions are holding out, like this Rubis, a real little treasure on the doorstep of the square. Frankness in the plate and proprietary wines, a solid slate with immutable, reassuring standards: frisée with bacon, dry sausage, celery remoulade or marrow bone precede 5A andouillette, onglet or baron of lamb. We end on a sweet note with clafoutis or crème caramel.