The Relais des Salines, set in one of the stilt huts in this fishing village that was redeveloped in the 90s to reintroduce salt cultivation, deftly avoids the tourist trap. Here, products are at their freshest, recipes are simple but perfectly executed, and the enviable location does the rest. You'll want to dive into the 44 € menu-card, with its perfect sea bass chawanmushi, soy and coriander marinated gurnard, impeccable hake with chorizo and peas and broad beans, and vanilla rice pudding with goldrush apple sorbet, shortbread hazelnuts and caramel. Small, affordable cellar, delicious service.