In Belleville, at the end of a street where art spills over the walls, Pierre cooks, Gabrielle serves, and the two of them run a lively, committed establishment that plays fair. Everything is homemade, everything is in season: crunchy asparagus with aged Parmesan and grilled buckwheat, rosy farmhouse pig to be gnawed to the bone, whipped cream on fresh strawberries. The menu is short, and the cellar is best discovered by instinct. Full menu at €25. A bistro that keeps things simple, but gets it right and makes you want to come back.