In Belleville, on this stretch of street where art spills out from the walls, Pierre cooks, Gabrielle serves, and together they run a lively, socially conscious restaurant that plays by the book. Everything is homemade and seasonal: crisp asparagus with aged Parmesan and toasted buckwheat, pink-roasted farm-raised pork to gnaw right down to the bone, and whipped cream made to order over fresh strawberries. The menu is short; the wine list is best explored by instinct. A bistro that keeps it simple, but gets it just right and makes you want to come back.