In the very exclusive village of Saint Martin de Belleville, there are very few addresses that have retained their soul of yesteryear. The resort seeks out the premium style of its neighbors Méribel and Courchevel. Yet a few beautiful houses remain, tucked away behind their local stone walls, safe from vanity and covetousness. Le Montagnard is one of them. First and foremost, it's the story of Eric Suchet, a Bellevillois mountain farmer who put all his energy into transforming his grandparents' stable into a renowned restaurant. Then it's the work of his children, Lucie and Valentin, who represent the new generation at the helm of this beautiful place made of wood and slate, just as it was in the old days. It's hardly surprising, then, that this address combines the two indispensable conditions: sincerity and regularity. Éric Jacquier's fish dishes are well accompanied by a generous spelt risotto, as is the pan-fried polenta on a beautiful supreme of poultry, while the rump steak of Abondance, a suggestion of the day, is accompanied by crosnes, a generous polenta (again) and a fine brown sauce. As for the desserts, Marine, the newly-arrived pastry chef, makes a real splash with this rather successful entremets, on a bed as crisp as a Florentine. We listen attentively as Joseph and Valentin talk about their home and life on the mountain pastures.