Le M - Domaine de Rochebois

Rating: 12.5
Author: Gault&Millau

2 route du Château de Montfort, 24200 Vitrac, France

12.5/20
Gourmet Restaurant

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Location: Vitrac
Cooking: French | Gastronomic
Services: Accommodation, Terrace
Style: Elegant, Romantic

Budget (€)

Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

Gault&Millau's review 2026

12,5/20

Gourmet Restaurant

This remarkable estate, set on thirty-three hectares of Périgord countryside and featuring five hundred meters of riverbank along the Dordogne, evokes the grandeur of certain large American resorts while retaining the peaceful charm of a 19th-century residence. In the summer, the terrace overlooking the landscape is undoubtedly one of the finest features of this very chic establishment, frequented in the evenings by an international clientele dressed in elegant attire for dinner. Since June 2025, the kitchens have been led by Paul Pettini, who trained under Jean-Luc L’Hourre, the Meilleur family, and the Pourcel brothers before embarking on an extensive career in Asia: his repertoire remains classically grounded, with a strong Perigord and Southwestern French influence, yet is enlivened by acids, herbs, fruits, and spices drawn from his travels. The pike cake, prepared to order, first captivates with its light, airy texture, the velvety tang of cauliflower, and the saltiness provided by the fish roe. The marbled foie gras, perfectly seasoned, is refreshed by a vegetable ravioli made with beets and rhubarb, as well as flambéed strawberries, though the presentation lacks simplicity and elegance. The herb-roasted sea bream is fresh and cooked to perfection, but the creamy seafood emulsion is rather sparse, leaving us wanting a bit more of the expected indulgence. More straightforward, the pan-seared free-range chicken is fortunately accompanied by an excellent creamy mushroom sauce, a rich Sardinian fregola prepared almost like a risotto, and a full-bodied, well-reduced gravy, though it is a bit too subtle. As for the vanilla and walnut profiteroles, they bear little resemblance to traditional profiteroles other than the name: this highly stylized cylinder is visually striking and indulgent thanks to the vanilla ice cream, gianduja, walnuts, and well-balanced chocolate. This ingredient-driven cuisine is not lacking in creativity, but the sauces—which often seem promising when reading the menu—sometimes turn out to be too restrained on the plate. The expertly curated wine cellar gives prominence to vineyards from the Southwest, while the by-the-glass selections—including a Rosette and several regional sweet wines—fully assert their Périgord identity.