A bistro "plus", this Grain de folie does indeed offer a touch of whimsy for a change from tatakis and pavlovas. It's not that you can't find it here, but a good €44 menu regularly includes fine cuisine and a few ideas that are not out of place on today's ready-made menus: scallop tartare with foie gras and herring roe, gurnard fillets plancha with soubressade cream, medallion of veal cooked gently with green asparagus and morel cream. Desserts in the same spirit (the house lemon tart, cannelloni glacé vanille tartare d'ananas et sabayon au rhum), attentive service, lunch menu at €25. Roussillon winegrowers are well represented.