The term "institution" is sometimes overused, but here it can be used without restriction to describe this restaurant, which began life as a simple bistro in the late 19th century and has gradually evolved into one of the most fashionable brasseries in Saint-Germain. The setting is magnificent, both poetic and unique, the clientele a mix of regulars and tourists dazzled by the myth, and the cuisine has evolved with the times, of course retaining its bourgeois and classical foundations that the excellent chef Yoshihiko Miura modernizes with small touches. The whole roasted line-cut St. Pierre is a must-try monument. Good menu at 56 €.