Better than a breakdown service, this Diurnal Cuckoo does the job with kindness and a certain amount of research in today's dishes: cauliflower velouté with almond pepper and candied kumquat, pork ribs with endive, pear and walnut, vanilla cardamom cabbage with salted butter caramel sauce in a well-balanced €29 menu, with the meat or fish of the day as the main course.