This Cornichon (the one on the Left Bank, not to be confused with its namesake on the 11ᵉ), after making a name for itself under Franck Bellanger and Matthieu Nadja, hasn't lost a step since it was taken over by Sébastien Dagoneau. The canaille, rustic and authentic spirit of the early days is still very much alive, with gravelax salmon with sauce vierge and beet hummus, golden veal sweetbreads with crapaudine potatoes and Crécy purée, and the airy Santo Domingo chocolate baked like a soufflé, escorted by roasted pear and a tender chocolate/ginger ganache. The comfort remains that of a neighborhood bistro, sufficient but rather basic, and the service evolves in a discreet and delightful connivance with its public.